Getting to have an adventure in Alaska means visiting and exploring lots of protected areas, and that includes the Chugach National Forest. The second largest of the US National Forests (the Tongass NF in Southeast Alaska is the largest) here in the Chugach you’ll find waterfalls, lakes, glaciers and tons of wildlife. Chances are that if you do anything around Anchorage, Palmer or Girdwood during your visit that you’ll be enjoying the Chugach, so the Begich Boggs Portage Valley Visitor Center is a great place to visit and learn a little bit about the beautiful places you see.
Located at the end of the Portage Valley (technically Girdwood), the Begich Boggs Visitor Center has lots of exhibits to get you acquainted with the Chugach NF and specifically the Portage area. It’s worth the visit and is covered by your National Park Pass. We’ve got the scoop on visiting the Begich Boggs Visitor Center and planning your time in the Portage Valley, as there’s lots to do. If you have any questions about our recommendations or need additional suggestions, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to share more and help you plan a great Alaska trip.
Why Visit the Portage Valley Visitor Center
So many people coming to the Portage Valley and visiting the Begich Boggs Visitor Center don’t get to have a lot of time exploring the Chugach National Forest, but because this is an easy spot to visit on a day trip from Anchorage they do get to see some of the beautiful scenery and learn a little about the area. From the glaciers to the wildlife, there’s a lot to see here. There’s a theater that plays a great film all about the Chugach, and there’s some of the coolest art you’ll see outside of the Anchorage Museum.
As you go through the Begich Boggs Visitor Center, the thing that stands out most to me is how the exhibits tell the full story of the Chugach, including the people who’ve been here for thousands of years. Stewardship is the primary message as you read about kayaking in the fjords or wildlife management. The Chugach National Forest covers almost 5.4 million acres and includes at least five different ecosystems from the tidal zone to the mountain tops. If you’re heading out to hike or going on a boat to see tidewater glaciers, that’s all a part of the Chugach and all part of what you will learn about in the visitor center.
One of my favorite features at the Begich Boggs Visitor Center is actually the Portage Lage atrium. A glass tunnel leads you to a nice viewing room where you can enjoy the view across Portage Lake and watch the clouds fall off the mountains to the water. You used to be able to see the Portage Glacier from this spot, but over the years the glacier has receded so much that now it’s only visible if you do the hike or do the Portage Glacier Cruise. Until the 1970s the glacier came almost right up to the visitor center, but now it’s shrunk to all the way around the corner. It’s kind of incredible to be able to see glaciation and recession so present and visible.
Tips for Visiting the Chugach National Forest Visitor Center
Plan to visit the Begich Boggs Visitor Center as a stop on the drive from Anchorage to Seward or before you go through the Anderson Tunnel to Whittier. If you’re visiting for Anchorage and giving yourself a full day in the Portage Valley, you can visit any time before or after hiking or doing the Portage Glacier Cruise. Give yourself an hour at least to go through the exhibits and watch the film. It’s not an inconvenient stop to make, so even if you only have time for a quick visit, it’s worth it.
The Begich Boggs Visitor Center isn’t as large at the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center for the Tongass National Forest in Ketchikan, and its exhibits are quite different. If you’ve been to one it’s still worth visiting the other as well. When you come to the Portage Glacier Lake visitor center, it’s not really a hub for hiking like the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is. Although the Trail of Blue Ice begins here and continues through the Portage Valley nearly to Turnagain Arm, it’s the only trail that leaves from here. This 7 mile trail goes along Portage Creek and if you have the time, it’s beautiful and full of wildlife.
Can I hike to Portage Glacier from the Visitor Center?
While you used to be able to access the Portage Glacier directly from the Begich Boggs Visitor Center, now you can only see Portage Glacier from either the Portage Glacier Cruises boat tour or by hiking from Whittier (other side of the tunnel) up through Portage Pass. That trail is 2.3 miles up and 2.3 miles back down into Whittier, and it climbs 1400 feet before descending down to Portage Lake. You cannot walk around the lake to get to the Portage Glacier, but you’ll have views of the glacier from the trail.
Need to Know for the Portage Valley Visitor Center
There is an admission fee for the Begich Boggs Visitor Center, but if you have a National Parks pass that will get you in, so don’t forget it. This is NOT a National Park so you won’t be able to get a National Park Passport stamp but they do have a stamp for the Chugach National Forest, as some people do collect those. There is a small gift shop space as well, but there is no food service or snacks. There is a water bottle refilling station.
Getting to the Portage Valley Visitor Center
It takes just over an hour to drive from Anchorage to the Begich Boggs Visitor Center in the Portage Valley. If you’re stopping at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center first, it’s about 10 minute from there, and then it’s just five minutes to the Byron Glacier trailhead or the Anderson Tunnel to Whittier. If you miss the initial turn to get to the visitor center, you’ll need to turn around after you go through the short tunnel, NOT the Anderson Tunnel. You can turn around and go back to the Begich Boggs Visitor Center and that same road will take you to Portage Glacier Cruises and Byron Glacier. There is a big parking area here, so even on a busy day you shouldn’t have any trouble getting a spot.
Chugach National Forest Visitor Center Operating Info
To complete your planning, here is all the information to plan and book your adventure.
- Operating Dates/Season: May through September, Thursday – Sunday 9:00 am to 5:00 pm
- Tour office phone number: 907-783-2326
- National Forest Service website: FS.USDA.gov
- Visitor Center address: Portage Lake Loop, Girdwood, AK 99587
More Things to Do in Whittier, Portage and Girdwood
Whittier is a port town, through and through. It’s famous for being the town where everyone lives in one building, and for those of us who’ve lived in Alaska, we always like to say “It’s, um, prettier in Whittier…” but exchange “prettier” for a rhyming word that means crappy weather. It’s true that Whittier tends to get much worse weather on the regular than the Portage side of the tunnel or up in Anchorage, but it is still beautiful. When you’re doing a glacier cruise or fishing out of Whittier, the weather often improves as you enter Prince William Sound, so have hope! Portage and Girdwood are both off the Seward Highway, so it’s easy to plan activities or stops on the way to Whittier or the Kenai Peninsula from the Anchorage area. Here are a few additional things you can add to your time in Whittier to make the most of your visit:
- wildlife watching in the marina – otters, seals and eagles frequent the marina in all weather
- Prince William Sound Salt Co – great sea salts for cooking and baths with salt production viewing
- walk the row of shops and vendors – there are some unique souvenir shops and vendors in Whittier, and several cafes that stay open until mid-September
- Portage Glacier – stop into the visitor center or do the short boat tour to the glacier on the lake
- Trail of Blue Ice – easy trail that you can join anywhere along the Portage Glacier Road
- Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center – a good place to see rescued animals and learn about Alaska wildlife
Dining in Whittier and Girdwood
Whittier is a small town, and so is Girdwood, but there is good food to be had. If you’re heading to Whittier for the day, during peak summer months you’ll have quite a few options for meals… not so in the off-season. Girdwood stays pretty open all year as it’s got the Alyeska Resort in town that attracts people from all over the state in both summer and winter. Here are our picks for where to eat in both Whittier and Girdwood:
- Lazy Otter Cafe – in the marina for coffee and snacks
- Wild Catch Cafe – perfectly Whittier, great for lunch
- Varly’s Swiftwater Seafood Cafe – easy and delicious, good standard
- Girdwood Brewing Co – food trucks and great local beers
- Forte at the Alyeska Prince Resort – really good Italian food that you’re not expecting in Alaska
- Chair 5 – burgers and such, chill vibe and delicious
- Double Musky Inn – in Girdwood, pricey but very good
Where to Stay in Portage / Girdwood / Whittier
If you’re thinking you don’t want to stay in Anchorage to drive down to activities in the Portage Valley, Girdwood or over in Whittier, there are actually lots of places to choose from down here along the Turnagain Arm and up the valley. There are not a ton of hotels, but lots of private rentals. Stays in Whittier are few and far between, so planning to be on the west side of the tunnel is a good idea.
More ideas for your visit to Whittier, Portage and Girdwood:
I hope you’re excited to visit the Chugach National Forest and explore the Portage Valley. Between the beautiful views and sense of Alaskan adventure, I know you’ll love it. If you have any questions about visiting the Anchorage area of the drive from Anchorage to Seward, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to help with travel planning for an Alaska Trip!
