Have you ever heard of Whittier? Do you know about the town you have to go through a tunnel to get to? Well if you are ending a cruise through the Inside Passage and heading up to Anchorage from Prince William Sound, you’re probably going to be visiting Whittier. It’s not a big town, but it’s one of the most unique towns in Alaska and it’s a great launch point for fishing and glacier adventures.
Nestled on the western edge of Prince William Sound, Whittier, Alaska is a small, fascinating town with a population of just over 200 residents. Whittier’s intrigue goes far beyond its size though. It’s often referred to as “the town under one roof,” as most residents live in the same building, the Begich Towers (more on that below). Something else weird is that Whittier is accessible via one of the most unique transportation systems in North America: the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a combined train-and-car tunnel that connects the town to the rest of the world. Whittier also serves as a hub for the Alaska Marine Highway System, making it a vital connection point for ferry services throughout coastal Alaska.
We’ve got all the info you need for visiting Whittier or just to loop you in on adding it as a possibility to your Alaska trip. If you have any questions about visiting or need tips for including it on your AK itinerary, just leave a comment or send us a note. We’re happy to help!
Why Visit Whittier, Alaska?
Despite its small population, Whittier plays a key role in regional tourism and serves as an entry point for visitors to explore Prince William Sound or who are heading up to Anchorage and the Interior. This blend of isolated living, innovative transportation, and outdoor adventure makes Whittier a unique part of Alaska’s story and worth the visit if you have the time. Visiting Whittier doesn’t fit with every Alaska trip plan, but it’s worth adding if you can.
I will say, when you hear Alaskans talk about Whittier there’s usually a tone of gray wetness to their chatter. The reason is because it’s nearly always raining when you exit the tunnel into Whittier. The general rule of thumb is that if it’s nice when you enter the tunnel, it’s icky on the other side, and the opposite tends to be true too. Either way, enjoy the trip and if you’re heading out on the water, the weather also tends to improve as you head towards College Fjord or onto Valdez.
Whittier Tunnel: the Full Scoop
Access to Whittier is controlled by the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America. Stretching 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) through Maynard Mountain, this tunnel is one of the most important engineering achievements in Alaska. What makes the tunnel even more unusual is that it is shared by both vehicles and trains. To allow this dual usage, the tunnel operates on a strict schedule: one-way traffic alternates every 30 minutes, with periods reserved for trains. The surface inside the tunnel is paved, but vehicles drive on the same tracks used by freight and passenger trains.
Note: there is ZERO risk of being in the Whittier Tunnel at the same time as a train if you’re driving a car. Things are tightly managed and there’s no chance of this happening.
History of the Whittier Tunnel
The tunnel was originally built during World War II to provide rail access to the military port in Whittier. In 2000, it was converted into a dual-use tunnel to accommodate road traffic, giving visitors and residents greater access to the town. The tunnel’s limited operating hours (usually 5:30 AM to 11:00 PM) require careful planning, especially for tourists arriving late at night or locals transporting goods.
Tourism in Whittier would’ve exist without this infrastructure. Many visitors use the tunnel to reach the town as a gateway to Prince William Sound, famous for its wildlife, glaciers, and waterfalls. The Whittier Tunnel is very important in connecting the town to the nearby Seward Highway and Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city.
Note: I’ve missed my planned tunnel time and had to wait for the next chance… and yes, that’ll make you miss your tour if you’ve got something booked. If you’re going fishing with a small charter you may be able to postpone it if you miss your tunnel time, but a larger tour like a glacier cruise won’t wait for you.
Whittier’s Begich Towers: Life Under One Roof
Whittier’s most iconic feature is the Begich Towers, a 14-story apartment building where nearly all the town’s residents live. Originally built in the 1950s as a military barracks, the building now functions as a multi-purpose facility that houses the town’s essential services. A school, a post office, a grocery store, a church, and even the police station are all located within the Begich Towers, creating a self-contained community. It’s not a beautiful castle in the mountains like you might picture, but is really just a solid piece of construction made to weather the hard Alaska winters.
Living in one building fosters a sense of closeness among residents (I’ve heard), but it also requires a unique lifestyle that I certainly don’t have the capacity for. With the rough winters and frequent storms, residents often rely on indoor infrastructure to meet most of their needs. Underground tunnels connect the building to other nearby parts of the town, allowing people to move around within a certain bounds without stepping outside during bad weather.
The unusual setup of the Begich Towers is fascinating to visitors and media alike, contributing to Whittier’s reputation as a quirky destination. Tourists often stop to see the building and learn about how residents manage daily life in such an isolated environment, but it’s NOT open to the general public. Visiting Whittier doesn’t mean entrance into the Begich Towers.
Alaska Marina Highway in Whittier
Whittier is also an important port along the Alaska Marine Highway System (AMHS), which provides ferry service to coastal towns across the state, from here to Bellingham, WA to the south, or out to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Islands. The AMHS ferries are crucial for both residents and tourists, offering a scenic and (quasi) convenient way to travel across Alaska’s waterways. Whittier’s location makes it a hub for day ferry routes to places like Valdez, Cordova, and the small communities scattered along Prince William Sound.
For many visitors, the ferry system offers a unique way to experience the beauty of Alaska’s coastline. Ferries depart from Whittier year-round, though the busiest months are during the summer, when tourists flock to the region to explore the sound’s dramatic fjords, glaciers, and marine life. The ferry also plays a vital role in transporting goods and supplies to Whittier and surrounding towns, given the limited road infrastructure in this remote part of the state.
In addition to offering practical transportation, the Alaska Marine Highway ferries serve as floating sightseeing platforms. Passengers often spot whales, sea otters, and puffins as they glide through the calm waters of Prince William Sound. Whittier’s ferry terminal thus acts as both a transportation hub and a tourism launch point, making it a significant contributor to the local economy.
Note: before you plan an adventure on the Alaska Marine Highway as an alternative to a cruise or road trip, know what you’re getting into. Perhaps a good first run is to try the AMHS from Whittier to Valdez or Cordova and then plan more grand journeys from there. And if you’re bringing a car, plan to spend $2K-$4K depending on vehicle size and route.
Things to Do in Whittier, Alaska
Tourism plays a major role in Whittier’s economy, and I love getting to contribute to it! The town offers various outdoor activities, including fishing, kayaking, and wildlife/glacier tours. The waters of Prince William Sound are LOADED with marine life, and boat tours from Whittier take visitors close to glaciers, waterfalls, and remote coves. Whittier is also a popular embarkation point for cruises that explore Southeast Alaska or are disembarking to head toward Kenai Fjords National Park.
Directly in Whittier, there isn’t a ton to do just in town. There are some shops and restaurants around the marina. You can get your sea salt products, good coffee and even some beautiful Alaskan art, but it’s not such a busy place as that you’ll need several hours to wander the shops of Whittier. Between stores and cafes, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles and sea otters, as there are LOTS directly here around the marina areas.
Tip: For people planning a 7 day Alaska road trip, you can easily make it 8 days by visiting Whittier between the Seward and Anchorage days.
Glacier Cruises on Prince William Sound
I think the glacier cruises from Whittier are awesome and I’ve done several. Because the town is the gateway to Prince William Sound you have several options for the length of glacier cruise you can do, and even which areas you can cruise to. You’ve got both College Fjord and Blackstone Bay just beyond Passage Canal (the bay Whittier is located on) so between tidewater glaciers and wildlife watching, you’ll love either option.
Here are two great choices for planning a glacier cruise from Whittier:
- Phillips 26 Glacier Cruise – large boat, longer tour, lots of glaciers
- Lazy Otter Tours – small boats, more intimate, cove landing
Kayaking on Prince William Sound
Kayaking in Prince William Sound is especially popular among adventure enthusiasts, both experienced and not. The calm waters allow paddlers to explore tidewater glaciers (drop off, not direct paddle), spot wildlife, and navigate among floating icebergs. Alaska Sea Kayakers is the leader for kayaking trips out of Whittier, so check with them to see what’s the best fit for your visit. May 1 – Sep 15
Fishing Charters from Whittier
Fishing charters are another draw, offering opportunities to catch halibut, salmon, and rockfish. I’m not a big fisherman and haven’t gone deep sea fishing from Whittier myself, but I’ve brough plenty of people here to fish on Prince William Sound. Whittier Marine Charters is one of the guides to go out with, and they have been on the water with guests for 25+ years, so you can feel confident going with a tried and true fishing guide like them. Big Irv’s is another pick for halibut fishing you can check out.
Hiking Trails to Explore
If you’re down for some hiking, that’s actually a great idea for adding to your visit to Whittier. Passage Canal has several waterfalls that pour into it and lots of snowfields to see, so if you plan it right and dress appropriately you can enjoy some beautiful hikes. As you plan a hike though, consider the logistics of it. For example, if you’re hiking Portage Pass, that’ll take you over the mountain and OUT OF WHITTIER, so be sure to have transportation figured out. Here are some hikes to consider:
- Horsetail Falls Trail – 2 miles
- Emerald Cove Trail – 4 miles
- Portage Pass Trail (one way)
- Blackstone Bay (long trip)
On the other side of Portage Pass you’ll find a lot more hiking trails in the Chugach National Forest. The Trail of Blue Ice is easy and great with kids, and then the Byron Glacier Trail is a little more difficult, but beautiful and a great alternative if the weather in Whittier isn’t great for hiking.
Tips for Visiting Whittier
Because of its proximity to Anchorage, Whittier attracts day-trippers and weekend visitors looking for a quick escape into nature and out to the tidewater glaciers. Most cruise ship guests don’t stick around, so often the town is just day guests here for fishing and sightseeing cruises. With people coming in from Anchorage or Seward, they all have to go through the Anderson Tunnel. While a lot of cars can be accommodated with each one-way trip through, be sure that you arrive at the Whittier Tunnel early enough that you’ll make it through. The only time I’ve ever missed the tunnel wasn’t because there wasn’t enough room to let everyone through, but because I timed my drive wrong and arrived just as the tunnel closed direction.
If I were to sum up everything you need to know to visit Whittier, I’d leave you with this:
- Pay attention to tunnel times and plan accordingly
- Reserve any tour in advance and understand WHERE TO PARK
- Bring snacks and drinks for any wait you have in line for the tunnel
- Dress warmly / in layers even in the peak of summer as the weather can roll in quickly
Dining in Whittier and Girdwood
Whittier is a small town, and so is Girdwood, but there is good food to be had. If you’re heading to Whittier for the day, during peak summer months you’ll have quite a few options for meals… not so in the off-season. Girdwood stays pretty open all year as it’s got the Alyeska Resort in town that attracts people from all over the state in both summer and winter. Here are our picks for where to eat in both Whittier and Girdwood:
- Lazy Otter Cafe – in the marina for coffee and snacks
- Wild Catch Cafe – perfectly Whittier, great for lunch
- Varly’s Swiftwater Seafood Cafe – easy and delicious, good standard
- Girdwood Brewing Co – food trucks and great local beers
- Forte at the Alyeska Prince Resort – really good Italian food that you’re not expecting in Alaska
- Chair 5 – burgers and such, chill vibe and delicious
- Double Musky Inn – in Girdwood, pricey but very good
Where to Stay in Portage / Girdwood / Whittier
If you’re thinking you don’t want to stay in Anchorage to drive down to activities in the Portage Valley, Girdwood or over in Whittier, there are actually lots of places to choose from down here along the Turnagain Arm and up the valley. If you’re visiting Whittier, you can even plan to stay here for a night! There are not a ton of hotels, but lots of private rentals. Stays in Whittier are few and far between, so planning to be on the west side of the tunnel is a good idea.
I hope you’ll consider visiting Whittier. From the tunnel to the glaciers, there are plenty of reasons to visit and things to do. You’ll love it. If there are any additional questions or if you need some tips for planning an amazing Alaska trip, please leave a comment or send us a note. We live to be helpers and love being a part of the travel process!
