Haines, Alaska is a beautiful town sitting on a fjord with state parks on both sides of it. There is Chilkat State Park and Chilkoot Lake State Park, and we’re talking about the latter. Chilkat is all about the hiking and quiet coves of the peninsula, while Chilkoot Lake State Park is all about the fishing, camping and wildlife watching. We didn’t plan to spend so much time here, but it turned out to be one of our favorite places to enjoy Haines.
Have you been to Chilkoot Lake State Park, or maybe visited the Chilkoot River? Well, we have the full scoop on planning your visit to this beautiful place, including where you can fish, when to see wildlife and more. If you have any questions about visiting Chilkoot Lake State Park or need more tips for your time in Haines, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to share more and help YOU plan an awesome adventure in Alaska!
Highlights of Chilkoot Lake State Park in Haines
I’m all about the scenery and absolutely love Haines for its boundless and variable views, and Chilkoot Lake is at the top of the scenic side of Haines. Call it Chilkoot Lake State Park or State Recreation Site, it’s all the same. This area encompasses the Chilkoot River Cooridor, Chilkoot Lake boat launch and the campground. Surrounding the lake is State Public Recreation lands, most of which is inaccessible. This means that Chilkoot Lake is wonderfully protected and remains a beautiful haven for fishing, paddling, camping and watching wildlife.
Wildlife is the biggest highlight for us when we think of Chilkoot Lake State Park. With runs of both sockeye (red) and humpies (pink) the bears and eagles love it here, both at the lake and on the river. The abundance of wildlife makes this a wonderful place to visit if you’re in Haines with a photographer buddy or have kids with you. It’s in my top three bear spots in Alaska.
Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area is also a great place for fishing. We all have our preferred methods, and it seems that the most popular way to fish here is to throw on the hip waders and carefully set yourself up in the Chilkoot River. At the start of the river where the lake starts to drain there are some shallow spots that anglers like too. We like lures from the dock or bank, but you do you. My kids are still not confident/strong enough to safely wade, especially in such a swift river as the Chilkoot.
Tips for Wildlife Viewing at Chilkoot Lake State Park
Now, I know that you’re actually reading this because you want to know about SEEING BEARS at Chilkoot Lake State Park. Yes, you can see them with minimal luck. Here’s the scoop:
- the salmon runs need to be happening (late June through August)
- you need to be observant of the river banks and lakeshore
- just after golden hour into sunset is the best time to see them
If you don’t see any bears on the Chilkoot River, head towards the outlet of the river where it flows into Lynn Canal and watch along the beach.
The BEST place to see bears in Chilkoot State Park is at the fish weir, approaching from either side. This is a great spot to stop as a human too, as there are some great displays about both the salmons runs and the bear population of Haines. Even at the designated stopping areas with exhibits, you need to be VERY ALERT. Read all about bear safety here! The bears come from the woods on the hill next to the road, they come from the steep part of the river bank, and they come from down the road. Literally, every path is a path for bears and they can be defensive if they’re frightened or think their food is in danger. We’ve seen two boars (male bears) meet and position against each other, and we’ve seen a mama bear with cubs stand her ground against a male bear on the riverbank and out on the fish weird.
The bear situation is serious, and while it’s cool to see (and nearly guaranteed) it is precarious and can be dangerous. Keep children very close and pay attention all around you. If you see tourists doing stupid, unsafe things that encroach on a bear or are just too close, do not follow their lead. You can never be too far from a bear, especially a mama bear. Give them space!
Kayaking at Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area
We did one of the best kayaking tours we’ve had here at Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area. We did a morning paddle with Alaska Mountain Guides where they picked us up from the dock area in Haines and brought us out here. We were outfitted with PFDs and kayak skirts (to keep us dry in the boat) and then we headed out into the lake. Kayaking on Chilkoot Lake is really beautiful with the mountains and waterfalls coming down to the lake, and then the eagles all around adds to it all. A highlight for our kayaking tour was being led across the lake to a sockeye salmon spawning ground where we got to see the bright red fish doing their thing up close. It was really fun and great with kids! Read all about this Chilkoot Lake kayak tour here!
Book Alaska Mountain Guides Chilkoot Lake Kayaking here!
Being Prepared for Visiting Chilkoot Lake State Park
Depending on the day you have planned at Chilkoot Lake State Park, you may need a whole picnic spread or maybe not. If you’re bringing food with you and plan on leaving it in the car, think again. You do NOT want to leave food in your vehicle because it will attract bears and they WILL break into your car. If you’re bringing a picnic, especially if meat and cheese are involved, you need to use the bear boxes for storing it while you’re out fishing or out on the lake paddling. In general, bears don’t want anything to do with you, but you should proceed like they’ll be interested.
If you’re just coming to Chilkoot Lake State Park for the wildlife watching, be ready with your camera! Sometimes the bears and eagles are across the river or downstream, in which case it’s great to have a telephoto lens, but then sometimes you’re just minding your own business and they show up very near you. Being ready with a camera is always a good idea, just don’t let it compromise your safety.
If you’re fishing from the bank or dock, you’ll want to put on your bug spray before you start fishing, and then also wear the right protective clothing. Sometimes the mosquitoes can really be irritating. If you’re coming to Chilkoot Lake State Park for kayaking or canoeing, the bugs aren’t bad out on the lake (in my opinion) but I would rather not get bit than risk it. I will say though, in peak summer when you’re watching bears and eagles on the river, the bugs can really be a pain. There’s something about the early evening hours that mosquitoes love, and they REALLY want to ruin your wildlife experience.
Parking and Fees at Chilkoot Lake State Recreation Area
Chilkoot Lake State Park is free to enjoy if you’re visiting just for checking out the wildlife and the weir on the river, but if you’re parking at the lake for fishing or just hanging out, there is a $5 fee. There’s also a fee for launching a boat and watercraft, but to determine if you need to pay a launch fee, check the pay station to see if your gear requires it. There is a fair amount of parking at the Chilkoot Lake Boat Launch area, but on a busy fishing day it may be limited. Pay attention to signs for parking, as you cannot park up in the campground unless you’re camping there.
Tip: don’t forget to have your valid fishing license on your person, either a tangible one from a store or the online version. If you’re fishing and you’re 16 or older, you MUST have a valid Alaska State Fishing License and you need to be following fishing regulations for the area.
More Things to do in Haines
I feel like Haines is kind of this sort of secret spot on the Inside Passage. Most of the cruise ships go to Skagway or Icy Strait Point and completely miss Haines, which makes it wonderful and quiet. I love this town because there is lots to do and it’s beautiful. There are a few museums, you’ve got two state parks, lots of options for fishing, boat charters, LOTS of Chilkat Tlingit totem poles, art and more. Haines is the version of Alaska that I wish still existed all through the Inside Passage and up into South Central AK.
When you’re planning your visit to Haines and your activities, I think spending 3-4 nights is perfect. This gives you plenty of time to hike and enjoy the wildlife and rivers, but then also you can have time in town and up along the Haines Highway. Everyone has a different style of travel and activities they look for, and I think that’s what makes Haines such a good destination to visit.
Here are some of our recommendations for things to do in Haines:
Where to Stay in Haines
There are some cute, small inns directly in town in Haines. You can choose from a few options that are walking distance to all the restaurants, the museums, harbor and Fort William H Seward Historic Landmark. You’ll also find some different cabin resorts and vacation rentals outside of downtown, on the way to either Chilkat State Park or Chilkoot Lake State Park. There’s not a bad location option.
I hope you’re excited to experience Chilkoot Lake State Park and its beautiful bears and eagles. Between the awesome views and sense of Alaskan adventure, I know you’ll love it. If you have any questions about visiting visiting Haines or putting together a your ideas for Southeast Alaska, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to help with travel planning for an Alaska Trip!
